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The Climbing Club • View topic - Waddington Range

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:59 pm 
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Alpine Slogger
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:01 am
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Location: Too far from a summit
:rock: I've lost my words...


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:01 pm 
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Mountain Rhombus
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Location: Near the taco truck
Spectacular! Now those are some real glaciers...and I love the camp photo!

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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:32 pm 
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UW Climber
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SPECTACULAR. :drink: Looks like an amazing trip, with some very cool glacier travel and sweet rock climbing. There'll be another time to attempt the summit, I'm sure!

Obadiah - amazing pictures, as always. Jim - I'm waiting for you to post a few pics of Obadiah!


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 7:08 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Joined: Sat Oct 05, 2002 11:17 am
Posts: 921
Location: Seattle
.

Grace, this is for you:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I'll try to get to my Waddington photos on Sunday.

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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:34 am 
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UW Climber
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Jim, THANKS! I may have to ask you to send me the full file on some of those. :D


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:30 pm 
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UW Climber
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:13 pm
Posts: 107
Location: hopefully outside
simply beautiful! Sounds like a great experience. Too bad about the route being out of shape.


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:12 pm 
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UW Climber
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Location: Seattle
Awesome trip, one of these days I've got to get out there. So if the standard route is out, how do you get up Waddington?


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Longshanks
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver
To be honest, I'm not really sure why the Bravo Glacier ever became the standard, except for it's proximity to the Plummer Hut. While it probably is the easiest and safest route from the Tiedemann, there are definitely shorter easier routes on the other side of the mountain, and from Combatant Col.


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:55 pm 
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Longshanks
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Location: Denver


August 1st, 2010

Everything is an adventure climb here. No beta but what's in the guide, and often that's no more than a sentence or two. It makes things harder, but also ups the awesomeness of it all.

Having been stymied by the glaciers, it was time for a little more rock. We headed up the Los Alamos route on Claw peak for a fun half-day out. The route description didn't really make any sense to me, so I just picked my own line up the face, which upon review seems to coincide reasonably well with the line Mr. Serl has drawn in the guide. The exception to this being that we didn't bother with tromping across the snow to reach the first two pitches. instead we climbed half the West Ridge again, and made a descending traverse onto the south face. Our first pitch climbed straight up the lower half of the prominent chimney/crack system that slashes straight up the south face to just left of the notch on the east ridge. Clean, fun climbing, but a wee bit run-out in it's middle. The pitch finished with a spectacular lie-back-under-cling-stem-mantle thingy that exits right out of the chimney onto a sloping ledge/pedestal. Great belay, protected from rockfall by a nice overhang. From there it was up over the bulge to to the right and onto easier ground. A series of fun ramps and crack systems led to a frighteningly loose top-out on the east ridge. Fortunately all looseness was confined to the notch, and Jim led another fine 5.6ish pitch up the east ridge to the summit! From there it was an easy descent back down the familiar west ridge, directly to the hut! All in all, another fine outing, not to be missed if you have an extra day at the hut.


Image


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:36 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Location: Seattle

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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 5:57 pm 
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UW Climber
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Posts: 404
Location: Edmonds WA
How was the Eldorado? Any condensation?


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 6:36 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Location: Seattle
The Eldorado was great. There was no condensation. It was long enough that I could store all my gear at my feet and barely touch it. Obadiah slept on top of his gear.

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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:29 am 
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Duchess of Bearington
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Location: closer to josh, kris, and mel than craig
I finally got around to reading all of these and it looks awesome! Congrats on some difficult route finding - I imagine it was quite rewarding to choose your own line. Looking forward to reading more!


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:33 pm 
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giving spoon
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Location: Daddy

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Somehow I find Nature knows how best to push the lazy human form from its comfortable life and knock him face down into the living of it.
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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:14 pm 
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Longshanks
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Posts: 927
Location: Denver
Chris, the Eldo was just right. I doubt it is quite long enough for you, but I can stretch out in it with an inch or two to spare AND sit fully erect. As I think Josh commented a while back when he first got this tent, the fabric seems downright magical. No condensation whatsoever, even when we pitched it in the lowlands.


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