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The Climbing Club • View topic - Waddington Range

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 4:41 pm 
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Longshanks
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8/9-10/2010
After our Serra Three experience, Jim and I were sort of soured on the ice routes we had wanted to attempt. This wasn't so much due to the rockfall event, as our experience with the quality of the ice, particularly later in the day. We had no desire to repeat our V-threading-from-marbles experience. On top of that, the weather continued to be undecided. So, we hatched a plan to fly out a few days early, and climb the NW ridge of Mt. Sir Donald on the way home.

We still had too much stuff at our Dragonback camp to carry it all down to the Plummer Hut at once. So we decided to drag what wouldn't fit in our packs. I had brought a North Face duffel which we figured would be tough enough and waterproof enough to act as a sled. This didn't work as well as I had hoped, but was nevertheless better than I had feared. Painful, but still less work than making two trips.

We killed time at the hut experimenting with stove/pot efficiency and playing another round of Peak Experience. We took in the next morning's sunrise from Photo Point, and Mike King swooped in a few hours later to collect us.



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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:56 pm 
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UW Climber

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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 10:45 am 
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receiving spoon
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Good stuff Obadiah and Jim! I eagerly await the Sir Donald TR. I'm really liking these pictures a lot! I'm also glad that no one was hurt in that slide. I guess a little luck always helps.


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:34 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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I think we were unfortunate in a couple of ways on Serra Three. I believe the conditions in which we found the route are atypical to the conditions when it is usually climbed. The route description tells of climbing six to seven pitches of alpine ice to 60 degrees. It also describes the method of descent as a series of V-threads. This leads me to believe that the climb usually stays in shape after the sun hits it. I believe the heavy late season snow had not fully consolidated at that point, which led to the frozen graupel.

The climb was actually really fun up until the point I saw the rocks fall. I was fortunate to be looking up at the time and saw several flat rocks (saucer to dinner plate size fall from above). They cleared Obadiah quickly. I had an additional 3.35 seconds to contemplate things. A man can get a lot of thinking done in that time. I moved right as much as my anchor would allow and hunkered down, trying to hide beneath my helmet. Once we were clear, I verbally spurred Obadiah on. The rockfall was another unfortunate moment. Looking around before and after, there was no sign of previous rockfall on the route or at the base of the climb. It was really one of those freak things that you have no control over.

After getting to the base of the route, we had lunch then headed back to the East Ridge of Serra One to try to retrieve my cam. After quite a bit of searching and our racking our combined memories, we were victorious.

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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:26 am 
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Longshanks
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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:47 pm 
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experienced hiker of the climbing club
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Funny - that peak looks a lot like Klawatti (though obviously firmer rock).


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:09 am 
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Dr. Crevasse
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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:51 am 
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Longshanks
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Location: Denver
Nice! Love your first light picture, and "the pig" photos!

-O


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 11:27 am 
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The 11th Essential
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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 12:55 pm 
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Longshanks
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Yes. Mt. Waddington may be the most beautiful mountain in the world. At any rate, it certainly tickles the imagination!


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:00 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Location: Wallingford
Hey guys, I feel a bit like I've missed all the excitement having literally just now had a chance to read this TR, but I'm extremely glad I did. What a fantastic trip. I think it would be an understatement to say that it makes me wish I had decided not to go traveling in Europe and instead chosen to spend my money going climbing in Canada as Jim and I had discussed. Next trip ;)

You've both taken some absolutely amazing photos, and I think it would be a shame if you each didn't have some of them professionally printed and framed to hang in your respective apartments.

A couple questions I thought of while reading, sorry if they were already discussed or answered elsewhere:
- who put the hut there and why if the area is so infrequently visited?
- do you have to pay for the hut use?
- how many does the hut accommodate
- you mentioned a guide who gave you fresh produce - was he guiding clients in the area or climbing personally?
- could you have brought more fresh food than you did, and spent a little while building a refrigerator in the glacier near camp?
- how much webbing did you bring and how much did you use?
- how did you communicate with the pilot when you wanted to be picked up early? radio?


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 Post subject: Re: Waddington Range
PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 6:17 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Location: Seattle
Who put the hut there and why if the area is so infrequently visited?
The Plummer Hut was constructed in July 1969 by the British Columbia Mountaineering Club (BCMC). I believe that this area has seen more activity in the past than it typically sees today. The hut is located in the center of some of the best climbing the range has to offer. It acts as a base of operations for parties attempting any routes off the Tieddeman or Tellot Glaciers.

Do you have to pay for the hut use?
Yes: Free for for BCMC members; $10/night for non-members; and $20/person/night for guided parties.

How many does the hut accommodate?
The hut measures approximately 3 x 5 m and will sleep 6-8 people.

You mentioned a guide who gave you fresh produce - was he guiding clients in the area or climbing personally?
He was guiding a client.

Could you have brought more fresh food than you did, and spent a little while building a refrigerator in the glacier near camp?
In retrospect, we should have brought a cooler with more fruits and veggies. We could have repeatedly packed this with snow from the nearby glaciers.

How much webbing did you bring and how much did you use?
We brought ~100 ft of webbing and ~40 ft of cord. We ended up using a lot less than that. We probably used 50 ft of webbing and 6 ft of cord. However, if we had made it to the summit of Waddington, we would have had a lot of rappelling to do. This was the motivation for all the webbing/cord.

How did you communicate with the pilot when you wanted to be picked up early? radio?
The cost of the helicopter includes renting a radio for the time you are in the range. We also used this radio to get weather updates from the Kings (the helicopter family).

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