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The Climbing Club • View topic - Lillooet Ice - Marble Canyon

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:46 pm 
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Longshanks
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver
Some of the club's new gear was officially baptized this weekend. Grace and I went up for some ice climbing in Lillooet. We both used the new Sharken crampons, and tried out the Nomic water fall tools. Pretty impressed overall. I meant to do a side by side comparison of the Sharken and Vasak crampons, but never got around to it because the Sharkens were working so well. Maybe next time. Anyway, .


Last edited by Obadiah Reid on Wed Feb 18, 2009 7:04 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:05 pm 
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UW Climber
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Terrific weekend in Lillooet and I have to say I'm completely sold on the whole WI thing. Alan did a phenomenal job teaching safety on ice and I felt really solid on my first lead EVER, let alone on ice.

Thanks to Obadiah for being such a great partner and for posting the TR and pics. Thanks, too, to Jesi for making the weekend happen and to Alan for all his great stories and pointers! I hope to make it up north again soon for some more WI good times. I recommend that club members take advantage of the awesome club ice tools & crampons at your disposal while there's ice to be had!!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 2:32 pm 
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The Shepherd
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Location: Ravenna
I was waiting for this TR to pop up after I heard so many people were going to lillooet. Excellent TR and amazing pics. I was wondering if the club was going to get those crampons, and I am excited to try them out as well. Did they come from the IMA or the club office?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Longshanks
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Location: Denver
Thanks, Kris.

The new gear is all for the HUB:

Petzl Vasak Crampons, strap-on bindings, 2x
Petzl Sharken Crampons, hybrid lever-lock bindings, 2x
Petzel Nomic ice/mixed tools, 1 pair
Mammut Barryvox becons, 2x

I have yet to return the Sharkens and the Nomics, though.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:43 pm 
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Dr. Crevasse
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Joined: Sat Oct 05, 2002 11:17 am
Posts: 921
Location: Seattle
Wow, that looks like you had an awesome weekend. Glad to hear you're both hooked on ice.

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"It's not safe out here. It's wondrous, with treasures to satiate desires both subtle and gross. But it's not for the timid." Q


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:45 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Wallingford
Wow that looks awesome. I'll bet you guys didn't touch a single rock the entire weekend. I wish I could say the same for Kris' tools and one screw.

One thing I really learned this weekend and saw some of in your photos is the importance of good stances for placing screws. It's hard!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:01 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:51 am
Posts: 42
Location: Fremont
First of all, many thanks to Frank for taking myself and Valerie up to Lillooet for my first waterfall ice experience. I learned a boatload, including but not limited to things like just how flexible I am while dangling two pitches up with one crampon hanging by its leash on my new old Koflachs, that ice climbing is a lot about simple exhaustion management and objective hazard mitigation, don't look at your tool while you swing it, and don't think "hey I am on top rope, falls are no-consequence" becuase you have at least 24 sharp objects attached to your person. The climbing (one day on Icy BC at Marble Canyon, one day on Rambles Right the other direction on 99 from Lillooet, and a third short day of top rope again at Marble Canyon since Frank really did his knee in climbing a steep icy boulder field on the second day - I hope that is doing better, Frank!) was great and the setting and weather could not have been better. Photos at picasaweb.google.com/nak0959/LillooetIce

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:00 pm 
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Raging Alpoholic
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Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:15 pm
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I second Nathan's big thanks to Frank for making this trip possible for those of us who are still new to waterfall ice climbing. Here are a few photos that I took:

Nathan following the first pitch of Icy BC


Me "cramponing up easy ice" between P1 and P2 of Icy BC and getting some practice placing screws. It's hard work!


Frank leading the second pitch of Icy BC.


Nathan on the first pitch of Rambles right.


It was great to finally see this area and climb on some real frozen waterfalls.


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