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The Climbing Club :: View topic - Joffre (NW Ridge) and Matier (NE Spur) June 28-30
The Climbing Club
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/

Joffre (NW Ridge) and Matier (NE Spur) June 28-30
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=4315
Page 1 of 1

Author:  Nick Cowan [ Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Joffre (NW Ridge) and Matier (NE Spur) June 28-30

I bused up to Vancouver to join my friend Clemence and six other BCMC climbers (Christina, Jane, Emanuel, Tony, Denis, Joss) up to the Joffre Group. This was my first time hiking north of Pemberton so i was pretty stoked to see the scenery. On Saturday we drove up to the Joffre Lakes trail head and headed up the trail to the Upper Lake.
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From there we negotiated scree and snow slopes to climber's left of the icefalls to access the Matier Glacier.
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We set up camp below the NW ridge of Joffre.
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On Saturday we got up onto the ridge and worked our towards the summit of Joffre.
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This involved a lot of fun scrambling and the crux was a short 5.8 rock step which we tried climbing ropeless.
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When he was about 30 feet up, Denis ripped out a couple of microwave-sized boulders and came crashing down, but thankfully he cratered into the relatively soft snow below. I downclimbed to him and determined that he was more or less unharmed, pretty impressive given that he had bounced off the rock a couple of times. Both Denis and i were a pretty shaken up by the experience (he and the rocks he pulled out passed within a couple meters of me as i was climbing) so we got Joss to give us a top-rope for the crux. From there the scrambling was exposed but not too technical. Denis and i opted to use a rope on a particularly exposed section of scrambling. From there it was an easy stroll to the summit where we enjoyed the views.
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We took the Aussie Couloir back down to the Matier Glacier. The steep, sun-softened snow and some falling rocks made the descent spicy.
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The Ausie Couloir, at about 500 meters long and a sustained 45+ degrees the whole way, is a noble ski mountaineering objective. Here is a photo of the couloir from Matier (the black specks on the snow near the bottom center of the photo are a couple of tents).
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Clemence, Denis ad i headed back to camp while the rest of the crew set off to climb Mt Spetch in the remaining daylight hours.

On Monday Denis stayed at camp to nurse his leg, and the rest of us split into two rope teams: Clemence, Emanuel, Tony and i headed for Matier while the rest of the gang opted for Slalok. We accessed the NE spur of Matier via a steep snow slope then enjoyed fun ridge scrambling to the summit.
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We reconvened at camp before heading back to the trailhead. We had a surprisingly gourmet dinner at The Pony in Pemberton.

Author:  Kris Haskins [ Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:09 am ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like a great time. Does your comment about it being a noble objective mean that you are planning a return in the winter?

Author:  Chris Moorehead [ Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 

Nice. I was in this area last summer. We came up the Anniversary Glacier instead of up from the Joffre Lakes, then climbed Matier and Slalok. Our camp was on the Joffre-Matier Col.

Author:  Nick Cowan [ Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:49 am ]
Post subject: 

Yeah, i would love to return to the area in the winter time! The next drainage over, Cerise Creek, has a nice and the approach is pretty straight forward from the highway. Matier would make a great ski as well, and there are countless shorter mountains and other slopes that would be great when the crevasses are well filled.

Author:  ClĂ©ment Pernet [ Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:56 pm ]
Post subject: 

Oh, I missed this report. This really looks great and your photos are nice too.
Please take that couloir out of my eyes, this is outrageously tempting :D

Author:  Kyle Armour [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:32 am ]
Post subject: 


Author:  Rok Roskar [ Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:08 pm ]
Post subject: 


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