[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Joffre (NW Ridge) and Matier (NE Spur) June 28-30

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Mon Jul 22, 2019 1:17 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:16 pm 
Offline
A Sophomore
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 1:34 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Capitol Hill
I bused up to Vancouver to join my friend Clemence and six other BCMC climbers (Christina, Jane, Emanuel, Tony, Denis, Joss) up to the Joffre Group. This was my first time hiking north of Pemberton so i was pretty stoked to see the scenery. On Saturday we drove up to the Joffre Lakes trail head and headed up the trail to the Upper Lake.
Image
From there we negotiated scree and snow slopes to climber's left of the icefalls to access the Matier Glacier.
Image
We set up camp below the NW ridge of Joffre.
Image
On Saturday we got up onto the ridge and worked our towards the summit of Joffre.
Image
This involved a lot of fun scrambling and the crux was a short 5.8 rock step which we tried climbing ropeless.
Image
When he was about 30 feet up, Denis ripped out a couple of microwave-sized boulders and came crashing down, but thankfully he cratered into the relatively soft snow below. I downclimbed to him and determined that he was more or less unharmed, pretty impressive given that he had bounced off the rock a couple of times. Both Denis and i were a pretty shaken up by the experience (he and the rocks he pulled out passed within a couple meters of me as i was climbing) so we got Joss to give us a top-rope for the crux. From there the scrambling was exposed but not too technical. Denis and i opted to use a rope on a particularly exposed section of scrambling. From there it was an easy stroll to the summit where we enjoyed the views.
Image
We took the Aussie Couloir back down to the Matier Glacier. The steep, sun-softened snow and some falling rocks made the descent spicy.
Image
The Ausie Couloir, at about 500 meters long and a sustained 45+ degrees the whole way, is a noble ski mountaineering objective. Here is a photo of the couloir from Matier (the black specks on the snow near the bottom center of the photo are a couple of tents).
Image
Clemence, Denis ad i headed back to camp while the rest of the crew set off to climb Mt Spetch in the remaining daylight hours.

On Monday Denis stayed at camp to nurse his leg, and the rest of us split into two rope teams: Clemence, Emanuel, Tony and i headed for Matier while the rest of the gang opted for Slalok. We accessed the NE spur of Matier via a steep snow slope then enjoyed fun ridge scrambling to the summit.
Image
We reconvened at camp before heading back to the trailhead. We had a surprisingly gourmet dinner at The Pony in Pemberton.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:09 am 
Offline
The Shepherd
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:37 pm
Posts: 787
Location: Ravenna
Sounds like a great time. Does your comment about it being a noble objective mean that you are planning a return in the winter?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:48 am 
Offline
giving spoon
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:32 pm
Posts: 614
Location: Daddy
Nice. I was in this area last summer. We came up the Anniversary Glacier instead of up from the Joffre Lakes, then climbed Matier and Slalok. Our camp was on the Joffre-Matier Col.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:49 am 
Offline
A Sophomore
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 1:34 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Capitol Hill
Yeah, i would love to return to the area in the winter time! The next drainage over, Cerise Creek, has a nice and the approach is pretty straight forward from the highway. Matier would make a great ski as well, and there are countless shorter mountains and other slopes that would be great when the crevasses are well filled.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:56 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2008 7:00 pm
Posts: 54
Oh, I missed this report. This really looks great and your photos are nice too.
Please take that couloir out of my eyes, this is outrageously tempting :D


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 1:32 am 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 2:42 am
Posts: 11
Location: Seattle


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 12:08 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 12:29 am
Posts: 468
Location: Seattle


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group