In the short time window between my guiding job and my sister's wedding, Jon and I headed to Squamish for some granite. Granite multipitch was the perfect way to "recover" from a month of slow backpacking w/ a 60 lb load. Being a Bellingham native, I had about 7 days of climbing at Squamish. I just love it there! It was Jon's first time in Squamish.
Day 1: cragging at Smoke Bluffs. Following Jon up Penny Lane was a shock to my system, since I hadn't really rock climbed for 2 months. But then I led Quarryman, a fun 5.8, and felt better. We each toproped a fun 10c slab climb next to Quarryman, which made us feel even more excited to climb. That evening, we did most of the Smoke Bluffs connection, a fun link-up, but opted out of the last pitch because we got hungry. We cooked dinner at the picnic table by the climbers campground, and then slept in the car in the parking lot, hoping to avoid paying $10 for a lousy campsite with no campfires and nonpotable water. (A note about the water: climbers who had been there for 2 months said they drank it w/o problem. Apparently it comes straight from a creek on the Chief. We drank it too. So far, so good... but it's been only 10 days.) Alas, at 7:30 AM the campground host knocked on the car window, awakening us, and asked for the camping fee. grrr.. Kind of an amateur move on our part.. we should have known to get up early and get outta there! Apparently the campground person comes around at 7, so the next day we got up and out before she came. Score!
Jon leading Mosquito, (5.8 ) a stiff and polished crack pitch.
I lead the next pitch of the Smoke Bluffs Connection, Phlegmish dance (5.8 ). It was HOT outside and I used lots of chalk.
Day 2: time for some multipitch. We got on Snake, a 6 pitch classic with 3 stars on the Apron. It was slab and corner climbing, with some delicate traverses. Jon and I swung leads, and I got my 2nd ever 5.9 trad lead in. It was a slabby corner with a few run-out delicate mantles. I remember finding one fingerlock 20 feet above my last piece and jamming a yellow metolius in with a sigh of relief! I hope to keep pushing into leading 5.9.. it's really all mental. Jon led the crux, a difficult 5.9 pitch with some committing moves and a hard traverse. Following the traverse was equally as exciting, due to the large pendulum potential.
Jon leading a 5.8 corner:
gorgeous view from the top of Snake.
view the other way, to Garibaldi. Anyone want to ski it next May?
It was blazing hot, so we walked off the apron, took a break in the shade, and then cragged at Neat and Cool once evening set in. The mosquitoes were brutal! I hate those little beasts!
Day 3: cragging at Klahanie Crack, a perfect 5.7 splitter - park across the street for free parking. Also, look for the approach trail near the road, not from the parking lot. We ended up doing a bushwhack to get to the crack, but to our chagrin we found a beautiful trail leading right to the crack AFTER crashing through brush for 30 minutes.
Jon and I each led the crack, then drove to a beach for lunch, and then went home to Seattle to pack for CO. Beautiful trip and a great way to get back into climbing. I now realize that between July 26 and Aug 4, Jon and I spent 5 of 10 days climbing awesome rock! I can't wait to get back to Squamish. It's great for improving trad leading skills - there are 5.7 multipitch routes that I was able to lead when I first started leading trad, and many moderate leads to learn on. And for those wishing to push their limits and prepare for larger trips to the Bugaboos or other alpine climbing destinations, harder climbs abound. We should do a climbing club trip up there this Sept!!!
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