The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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 Post subject: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:31 pm 
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The Reverend
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Location: chained to my lab bench
on saturday portland rock gym hosted an ice festival and dry tooling competition to raise money for index and hyalite canyon. it included a raffle, a silent auction, and a slide show about mixed climbing in the cordillera blanca. very impressive. also, they had a keg of awesome beer.

the routes were set by seattle's own roger strong. and they were pretty hard. bryan schmitz (cc - powderhound) took the top honors.
Image
finals route was really stout
Image
prelim route took a really sweet undercling
Image

and the new bd fusion tools are totally sweet, i liked them better than nomics.

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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:36 am 
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Longshanks
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
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Location: Seattle
Cool. Somehow it looks very strange to see people wielding ice tools, but wearing rock shoes!


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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:41 am 
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The Reverend
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...and using chalk while wielding said tools!

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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:30 pm 
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Cap'n Wingspan
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Location: Ballard
Were they top-roping in the finals?


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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:36 pm 
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The Reverend
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yes, everything is tr. i don't know what the former rating was. the holds included a number of slick holds with either tiny ledges or pick holes, a few iceholdz, and on the prelim route - two styrofoam panels. very sticky, but very hard to pry the tools out of.

just to give you an idea - the winner got about 1/3, maybe as high as a bit under 1/2 of the way up the finals route before blowing off.

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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:12 pm 
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Alpine Sloth
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Location: Slowville
Looks sweet. Nice new profile pic too V!


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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:45 am 
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Navigator Doe
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:37 pm
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Looks like a good time. Is that you in the second picture? If so, are those the new fusions you are using?


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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:42 am 
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The Reverend
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Kris Haskins wrote:
Is that you in the second picture? If so, are those the new fusions you are using?

yep. i tried nomics in the prelims, and demoed the fusions in the finals.

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 Post subject: Re: pdx ice fest and dry tooling comp
PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:06 pm 
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The Reverend
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just FYI - in case this stuff interested anyone - my friend eric just put up a few dry tooling routes up on the outside wall of s.g. if you feel like practicing, the lead is really straightforward.

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