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 Post subject: Rapelling trick
PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:33 am 
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One Armed Wonder
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Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 3:18 pm
Posts: 832
Location: a Dungeon in the Physics Student
Interesting way to reascend a rap.
http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/201 ... trick.html
assuming you started using the technique in the picture of this thread
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5688
This additional trick makes this style of rappel (with an autoblocking atc) even more useful... perhaps its time to really add this technique to my arsenal.

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 Post subject: Re: Rapelling trick
PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:07 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:15 am
Posts: 129
Yes, this is nice.

I prefer, though I'm not saying it's superior, to rig my rappel device normally - to my rappel loop on my harness - and tie a Klemheist Friction Hitch, using 5mm cord or 6mm cord in a loop, rigged to the rappel ropes above my belay device. This set up allows me to ascend a rope immediately and somewhat easily. Though, the autoblock method Ian shared is a bit easier to ascend the rope. However, it's easier to return to rappelling using my rigging, it's somewhat difficult to return to rappelling using the autoblock method; especially if you're on vertical rock or free hanging.


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 Post subject: Re: Rapelling trick
PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 9:11 pm 
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UW Climber

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2010 8:01 pm
Posts: 115
Location: UW, Seattle
so i tried this today and it didn't work so well.
my complaint is that the pulling the rope through the belay device (atc guide) was a big pain. there was way too much friction on the rope. i had to really work at pulling the rope through.
i had it set up pretty much exactly as pictured in the article.

taking the time to tie two prussiks/klemhiests would've been much faster.

maybe i missed some critical element in my set up?

anyone else have issues?

-Nate J


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 Post subject: Re: Rapelling trick
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 10:24 am 
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UW Climber

Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 3:15 am
Posts: 129
Yep. There will be significant friction when pulling the ropes thru the auto-blocking belay device when the device is rigged in auto-blocking mode. Absolutely.

This undesirable friction is reduced if you're using super skinny "twin" ropes that are about 7.4mm diameter. I used to climb on twin ropes and I experimented with this rigging as described in the article; even with twin ropes there was always undesirably effort to ascend the ropes because of the friction in pulling the slack thru the auto-blocking device.

If you are using "half" ropes and especially if you're using "single" ropes then the friction increases dramatically to the point where you may get fatigued every 10-feet while ascending using that rigging.

I prefer a Klemheist Friction Hitch rigged above my rappel device, while I rappel. I've found it simple, efficient and easy to ascend my rappel ropes with this rigging, when the need arises.


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