[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Rappel Safe, Please

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Tue Jul 23, 2019 6:24 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 12:35 am 
Offline
One Armed Wonder
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 3:18 pm
Posts: 832
Location: a Dungeon in the Physics Student
So... this is both a TR and a know how topic. Even thought it is annoying to admit this to both myself and to others, I hope that more can learn from it, especially if it is closer to those you know.

I was on the Great Northern Slab at Index with Tanya and we had gone up twin cracks twice. Tanya had her first trad lead! We finished up the third pitch and dusk had set in. I had left my headlamps at the base (oops) and was trying to hurry the transition to the base for fear staying up too much later. We rapped to the top of twin cracks without incident. It was about 9:30.

Set up the ropes for the second rappel, tying both ends of the rope with figure 8 knots, somewhat loosely. No autblock was used, because the tend to really slow down my rappels. I tried doing a holster-ish method to help guide the ropes, but they were tangled in my gear. So I tossed them down. They didn't go the way that I wanted, and instead went into some cracks and got a little stuck in a slight cluster. I pulled up on them to try to move them to the left to the next anchor area.

I was able to release the ropes and continue fairly smoothly down the wall.

Barely feeling it slip through my hands, I heard the sound of the end of a rope going through the ATC. Then felt rock on my face and I grabbed desperately, and prevented a bounce off the wall. I knew exactly what happened, but was still confused. I was on the ledge right above Libra crack. I was alive. I hated myself for being so stupid. How could I? I know better than this...

I shouted to Tanya what had happened. I didn't have any pain, but some red was on my left elbow. Quite worried she worked to get the ropes sorted. I grabbed my Left foot. The foot wasn't actually flat in the shoe anymore: it had coiled over. I immediately grabbed it and felt nearly every single bone 'pop'. I hope(ed) that it isn't broken. I anchored myself quickly with a cam and helped Tanya get the ropes where they needed to be. The end that I slipped off, had no knot (well, duh).

Tanya got off rappel, I got off my anchor, and rappelled down to her. We pulled the rope through set the next rappel, carefully holstered and rappel and I backed up my rappel. Got to the bottom, only noticing my foot felt 'not happy'.

At the base, grabbed headlamps, gathered everything, and made it back to the car. Stopped by for some Ice and Ibuprofin, cheese, and bread. Soon will be resting. Tanya made the ride home fun and entertaining, helping to take my mind off the situation. I still have adrenaline that is keeping me awake.

How did this happen?
(1) The rope was poorly flaked, not halfway through the chainrings (off by a good 10 meters).
(2)I put an admittedly haphazard figure 8 knot maybe only 4-5 inches from the end. While doing all of my rope shenaningans I pulled the knot out.

Why did this happen?
(1) No headlamps and Rushing to get down because we didn't have headlamps
(2) Not flaking the rope to 50% because of extra time. Holstering appropriately could have helped.
(3) Not putting enough effort into putting appropriate knots in the end of my ropes.
(4) Indirectly considering the backup knots as the tool that I would use to realize If I wouldn't make it to the ground. They are backup knots, and you should not have to use them.
(5) Not backing up my rappel.

Please, only constructive criticism. Though, I deserve to be flamed more than anyone I can think (except maybe our last US President). I should not be alive, really and wrote this only so that you may better learn from the stupidity of those who are more 'experienced'.
Hopefully you can learn from this careless accident. I am truly sorry if I have let anyone besides myself down.

And for reference http://goacrophile.blogspot.com/2011/04 ... ethod.html is a great bit of know how that you should read about, if you haven't.
-i


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 1:03 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:09 pm
Posts: 64
Damn, that is scary, so glad you are ok! Thank you for passing on the story so we can all learn from it.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 8:38 am 
Offline
Longshanks
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver
Oy, that's some scary s**t! Glad you're alive to tell about it! How's the foot?

In reference to knotting the ends, figure-eights and overhands are not the best choice, as they can be "rolled" off the end even if they don't come untied, as you suspect. A double fisherman's on each line is, I think, the preferred method. If anyone is unsure what I mean, there's a good example at 2:20 in this video: http://youtu.be/9x8KV9OK7CU

My own near-mishap with rappelling is that I once clipped my device into a leg-loop. Fortunately, I tested the system before removing my cow's tail from the anchor, so I was able to correct it. Since I have an old-style harness with double-backed leg loops, I probably would have been OK in any case, but it still scared me!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:05 am 
Offline
One Armed Wonder
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 3:18 pm
Posts: 832
Location: a Dungeon in the Physics Student
Yeah... I will no doubt climb when I can, but it 'puts climbing into perspective'. The whole climb felt eerily relaxed.

My left foot possibly suffered a Listfranc fracture/dislocation that I reduced when I grabbed my foot. No doubt, this self diagnosis will be double checked by a real doctor / xrays. I think I also sprained my right ankle. All told, scary s**t indeed, and I'm really glad that I can be around to share.

Another annoying thing: I knew that the fig-8 was not ideal... but for some reason I still did it, with no justification.

_________________
Life can deal you an amazing hand. Do you play it steady, bluff like crazy, or go all in? - Joe Simpson


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 9:43 am 
Offline
Cap'n Wingspan
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Wallingford
Ian, I'm very glad that you are mostly ok given the potential severity of the accident. Obadiah is right on about the double fisherman's at the bottom rather than an overhand or 8, which you already know.
I think the other big takeaway is that rushing in such situations is 1) virtually never worth it, given the high stakes, and 2) can actually end up slowing you down in the end.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 2:43 pm 
Offline
One Armed Wonder
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 3:18 pm
Posts: 832
Location: a Dungeon in the Physics Student
I'm lucky : no permanent foot damage. But I think this puts me down to 5 of (hopefully at least) 9 lives though. I hope to not test that postulate out, however.

_________________
Life can deal you an amazing hand. Do you play it steady, bluff like crazy, or go all in? - Joe Simpson


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 11:16 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:43 pm
Posts: 302
Scary!!! Glad to hear you're mostly fine, and thanks for sharing your story for others to learn from.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 2:41 pm 
Offline
Tenacious Lee
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:33 am
Posts: 229
Location: Seattle
Very glad to hear you're okay Ian! Thanks for sharing your story so we can all learn from it.

Regarding headlamps: more and more often I find myself bringing the headlamp on multipitch, even if it's only three pitches and 9 in the morning. But even if I leave the headlamp in the pack, I always carry one of those : it throws a surprising amount of light and can save one's bacon if one needs to rig a rappel in the dark. Make sure to get one with a switch, as constantly squeezing it to keep it on gets old fast.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:23 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 216
Location: Warm sunny rock
Another option for an emergency headlamp is the . Lightweight, relatively cheap, designed for hands-free use, and even has a whistle. We also keep one in our car, since it can be stored with its batteries for years without recharging.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:38 pm 
Offline
One Armed Wonder
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 3:18 pm
Posts: 832
Location: a Dungeon in the Physics Student
Michelle and Lee, your suggestions are quite good ones. Thanks! In fact, I just purchased one of them. Better to not put it off, ya know?

_________________
Life can deal you an amazing hand. Do you play it steady, bluff like crazy, or go all in? - Joe Simpson


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 1:57 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:43 pm
Posts: 494
Location: Seattle
Wow, glad to hear you are ok! That ledge above Libra Crack isn't very big, and I think it is sloping, you're pretty lucky. I know that I often get pretty cavalier about rapping sometimes, so that I won't knot the end of the rope or put an autoblock on. I think I'll be motivated to do that more consistently now.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 5:02 pm 
Offline
UW Climber

Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2010 6:23 pm
Posts: 33
We heard about this in Squamish Ian - really glad to hear you're alright. I used to climb with a good friend in Boston and I picked up the habit of tying the two ends together before dropping the rope down. It certainly helps with such a situation.

The reference for the holster method was really helpful - I'll have to learn that.

I was sharing this and your belay safely post with another climbing colleague (I think you met him @ Index last week). I appreciate his attitude and try to imbibe it. He always insists on doing things correctly so you develop good practices, so you always follow the same process even when you're in a hurry or the circumstances are non-ideal because that's what you've trained yourself to follow. I do tend to take shortcuts myself when I'm in a hurry or rather don't have a strict process that I always follow, so I'm really glad you shared and I for sure will be more self disciplined to have a safe process that I always follow.

Wish you a full and speedy recovery!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:07 pm 
Offline
The 11th Essential
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2004 10:28 am
Posts: 612
Location: Boulder, CO
Yikes. Ian, so glad to hear that you are ok!
And thanks for being so willing and earnest in sharing the details of the incident.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:41 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:34 pm
Posts: 404
Location: Edmonds WA
Thanks for posting! I'll take it as a good reminder to rethink rappelling before I start climbing a bunch.

At the moment, another light is probably the only back up gear I carry. On Ingalls peak, my headlamp randomly stopped working. Fortunately, we had just finished the last rappel, but scrambling in the dark was slow going.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel Safe, Please
PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:36 pm 
Offline
experienced hiker of the climbing club
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 6:39 pm
Posts: 1945
Location: Bashing Brush
Scary indeed!

Heal up quick and in the meantime :drink2:


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group