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Falls Onto Static Slings
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5760
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Author:  Obadiah Reid [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Falls Onto Static Slings

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5

This is why you always, always, always use the rope as your attachment point in a belay anchor! It's also a good point in rappelling situations: multiple people clipped to a perhaps suspect anchor with long slings, moving about to prepare the rappel...

Author:  Lee Willcockson [ Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Falls Onto Static Slings

Thanks for posting Obadiah, it's something people need to be aware of. However, as he points out in the video, the take home lesson is not "Never tie in with slings", it's that when you do tie in with slings you need to make sure there's no slack in the system; that's why it's great to use a daisy chain or PAS, which allows you to take any slack out of your line quickly and easily. That being said, I generally tie into my belay anchor with a clove hitch on the rope my daisy chain; at rappel anchors however the rope is unavailable for tying into, so I use my daisy and an appropriate length sling.

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