The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
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 Post subject: Falls Onto Static Slings
PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:47 pm
Posts: 927
Location: Denver

This is why you always, always, always use the rope as your attachment point in a belay anchor! It's also a good point in rappelling situations: multiple people clipped to a perhaps suspect anchor with long slings, moving about to prepare the rappel...

PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:15 am 
Tenacious Lee
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Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:33 am
Posts: 229
Location: Seattle
Thanks for posting Obadiah, it's something people need to be aware of. However, as he points out in the video, the take home lesson is not "Never tie in with slings", it's that when you do tie in with slings you need to make sure there's no slack in the system; that's why it's great to use a daisy chain or PAS, which allows you to take any slack out of your line quickly and easily. That being said, I generally tie into my belay anchor with a clove hitch on the rope my daisy chain; at rappel anchors however the rope is unavailable for tying into, so I use my daisy and an appropriate length sling.

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