[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club • View topic - Rappel devices

The Climbing Club

at the University of Washington
It is currently Wed Oct 23, 2019 1:42 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 11:00 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna
I'm wondering what people mostly use as rappel device. I recently read about the Petzl Pirana which was originally designed for canyoneering but some people seem to use it also for rappelling on climbing routes:

http://www.rei.com/product/717878

Does anybody have experience using the Petzl Pirana? Also, is anybody still using the old metallic Figure 8 device for rappeling?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 11:19 pm 
Offline
Tenacious Lee
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:33 am
Posts: 229
Location: Seattle
I've not done anything in the way of technical canyoneering, so perhaps the requirements are different, but why not go with the ? It's lighter and fully functional as a belay device, both for the leader and for the second as an auto-locker. For single rope raps I believe you can double up on biners for added friction if necessary.

My impression is that figure-8 rappel devices have largely fallen out of common use, I believe because modern belay/rappel devices are easier to set up and use while also being lighter.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 12:11 am 
Offline
Cap'n Posthole
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:19 pm
Posts: 216
I always just use a belay device, usually my Petzl Reverso 3 or BD ATC. I have used a figure 8 before, but I found that they don't provide as much friction as I would like (although I am a rather husky fella)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:19 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna
One advantage of the figure 8 is that you cannot drop it, whereas the ATC or reverso you could accidentally drop them.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 8:23 am 
Offline
Alpine Slogger
User avatar

Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:01 am
Posts: 826
Location: Too far from a summit


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:20 am 
Offline
Tenacious Lee
User avatar

Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:33 am
Posts: 229
Location: Seattle


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 10:48 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 12:50 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:18 pm
Posts: 216
Location: Warm sunny rock
Figure 8 devices also tend to kink the rope, which is bad news next time you're leading on that rope and your partner is struggling to give you slack.
Because I always worry about dropping my reverso, on multi-pitch I either carry a spare ATC (1 spare between me & my partner) or tie the reverso to my harness with accessory cord. The accessory cord route does have one major drawback- you have to be sure that the cord doesn't ever get sucked into the device while rappeling or belaying.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:14 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 3:27 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 9:25 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Thu May 15, 2003 9:00 am
Posts: 252
Petzl has a good description of using a sling for extending the rappel as well as using it as a personal anchor.



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 9:38 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 11:11 am 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna
I decided to take a screenshot and post it here:

Image

Would you carry the prussik sling already girth hitched to the belay loop so that it's ready at the moment of rappel or girth hitch it when you get ready?


Last edited by Gianluca Interlandi on Thu May 13, 2010 12:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 12:31 pm 
Offline
Cap'n Wingspan
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 3:08 pm
Posts: 1045
Location: Wallingford
I have been rapping like this for a while now and I only put the autoblock/prussik on once I start to rap.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rappel devices
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 12:42 pm 
Offline
UW Climber
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:23 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Ravenna


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group