The Climbing Club

Racking cordelettes
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Author:  Evan Jewett [ Tue May 25, 2010 10:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Racking cordelettes

This might seem to be a silly question, but does anyone have a good way of racking a cordelette? Ive spent a lot of time thinking about how to rack different pieces of gear this spring and have yet to find anything I like for this piece. I have a standard length cord, about 16-17 feet, tied into a big loop. I use it alternately as a quadalette, cordalette, equalette, or a big sling (for rocks and trees) depending on the situation. When I'm using it as a quad, I just keep it that way with two lockers and clip around my shoulder. When I'm using it as a cordelette or an equalette (more common), I generally just loop in half and half again and then tie a figure 8 in it and clip it to my harness. This tends to be a pain in the ass to do on a climb and isn't very quick or easy to undue with one hand. It's too long to daisy chain as a single loop and seems too short and unwieldy to daisy as a double.

Any good ideas out there?

Author:  David Yount [ Wed May 26, 2010 1:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

Your present method of halfing it, then half again, then tie Figure-8 on 8 strands works fine.

Another, old skool, method is to half it, then twist it 7 or 8 times, then clip both ends with one biner. The 4 strands will twist together then the whole enchilada will "taco" and you'll have a tight little package.

You can also "daisy chain," or "chain stitch," or "electrician's braid," or "crochet stitch" (they're all the same) but do so with very loose and open stitches. Then clip both ends with one biner. The key is to make very loose stitches which will eat up lots of material.

There's a very tight and efficient way to package it into a tight roll, but difficult to explain in words.

Author:  Lee Willcockson [ Wed May 26, 2010 10:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

I also half it twice, but instead of an 8 I just tie an overhand, which I think is a little quicker and easier.

Author:  David Goulet [ Thu May 27, 2010 11:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

I have been playing around with it.

I have two ways not previously mentioned

1. mini-coil: wrap (coil) around spread out fingers- this gives a nice compact coil stop with about leaving about three feet, then tightly wrap excess around coil starting at the bottom and when you run out backtrack half a wrap and pass the loop through the center of the original coils with is then where you clip in your biner. It takes a little tinkering but eventually you can get pretty good at small tight package.

2. small overhand: double over once, triple in the same way as an alpine draw (effectively folding into thirds), then tie an overhand. It is a lot like a double and double overhand but makes for a slightly smaller package.

Author:  Ian Derrington [ Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

Not a silly Question! I'm really glad you asked it, as I thought it I was the only one who had it...

Personally, I don't like twisting them excessively , because it can end up being more of a hassle to deal with later as they seem to retain some of the twisty-ness, at least initially.

I find the halfing several times and tying a fig-8 does a reasonable job of storing it and helping to prevent tangling later on: If you don't tie the knot it can get 'pulled loose' resulting in a pain in the butt mess.

I'd like to hear more about the tight roll method.

Author:  David Yount [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 1:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

The tight roll method I alluded to was decribed by David Goulet.

Author:  Ben Whiddon [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

I also like the tight coil method. Here's another description and a series of photo's from another forum:
"I was shown to use my thumb and pinky like a boat cleat. Loop the knot over the thumb, make figure-8's around thumb and pinky, then a couple wraps around the middle and tuck the end through one of the "eyes". Clip that end on a biner. Makes a compact bundle."




I try to be neater about the coiling so it looks more like this:

Author:  Ian Derrington [ Thu Jun 17, 2010 2:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Racking cordelettes

Ben, thanks for the detailed beta. I'll be trying that asap!

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