[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club :: View topic - Rappel devices
The Climbing Club
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/

Rappel devices
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5603
Page 1 of 2

Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Tue May 11, 2010 11:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Rappel devices

I'm wondering what people mostly use as rappel device. I recently read about the Petzl Pirana which was originally designed for canyoneering but some people seem to use it also for rappelling on climbing routes:

http://www.rei.com/product/717878

Does anybody have experience using the Petzl Pirana? Also, is anybody still using the old metallic Figure 8 device for rappeling?

Author:  Lee Willcockson [ Tue May 11, 2010 11:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

I've not done anything in the way of technical canyoneering, so perhaps the requirements are different, but why not go with the ? It's lighter and fully functional as a belay device, both for the leader and for the second as an auto-locker. For single rope raps I believe you can double up on biners for added friction if necessary.

My impression is that figure-8 rappel devices have largely fallen out of common use, I believe because modern belay/rappel devices are easier to set up and use while also being lighter.

Author:  David Goulet [ Wed May 12, 2010 12:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

I always just use a belay device, usually my Petzl Reverso 3 or BD ATC. I have used a figure 8 before, but I found that they don't provide as much friction as I would like (although I am a rather husky fella)

Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Wed May 12, 2010 8:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

One advantage of the figure 8 is that you cannot drop it, whereas the ATC or reverso you could accidentally drop them.

Author:  Brian Doehle [ Wed May 12, 2010 8:23 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Lee Willcockson [ Wed May 12, 2010 10:20 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Wed May 12, 2010 10:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Michelle H [ Wed May 12, 2010 12:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

Figure 8 devices also tend to kink the rope, which is bad news next time you're leading on that rope and your partner is struggling to give you slack.
Because I always worry about dropping my reverso, on multi-pitch I either carry a spare ATC (1 spare between me & my partner) or tie the reverso to my harness with accessory cord. The accessory cord route does have one major drawback- you have to be sure that the cord doesn't ever get sucked into the device while rappeling or belaying.

Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Wed May 12, 2010 3:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Wed May 12, 2010 3:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Tom Lewis [ Thu May 13, 2010 9:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

Petzl has a good description of using a sling for extending the rappel as well as using it as a personal anchor.


Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Thu May 13, 2010 9:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Thu May 13, 2010 11:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

I decided to take a screenshot and post it here:

Image

Would you carry the prussik sling already girth hitched to the belay loop so that it's ready at the moment of rappel or girth hitch it when you get ready?

Author:  Evan Jewett [ Thu May 13, 2010 12:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices

I have been rapping like this for a while now and I only put the autoblock/prussik on once I start to rap.

Author:  Gianluca Interlandi [ Thu May 13, 2010 12:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rappel devices


Page 1 of 2 All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
https://www.phpbb.com/