[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 483: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 112: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4770: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4772: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4773: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 4774: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3887)
The Climbing Club :: View topic - Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline
The Climbing Club
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/

Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=5387
Page 1 of 2

Author:  Lee Willcockson [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 6:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

When I first started climbing I was taught to tie in with the classic figure eight follow-through, as I'm sure many of you were as well. Since then I've read about the Yosemite bowline, which some claim to be a superior knot for its ease of tying and untying after being loaded (ease of untying not always being a desirable quality in climbing knots you're trusting your life with...); I've also read that it's stronger than the figure eight, but there seem to be conflicting reports on this front. Personally, I've used the Yosemite bowline a few times and found that it is a lot easier to manage than the figure eight, and that the only real disadvantage is that not many people are familiar with it, which makes double-checking your partner's knot problematic. For reference, here's how to tie it:

Image

Are there any strong opinions on this subject either way?

Author:  Evan Jewett [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:35 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

From what I've read about the relative merits of each knot, it seems that there have been a number of deaths attributed to the knot failure for climbers using the yosemite bowline. The problem is not that the knot broke, but rather, that it became undone while climbing. There was an article discussing this problem in either Climbing or Rock and Ice sometime in the last year.

Author:  Obadiah Reid [ Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

Modern climbing ropes are so overbuilt that "knot strength" (how much it weakens the rope) is an entirely moot point. I don't have any personal experience with the YSB, so I can't comment further. Sounds like a knot for sport and gym climbing though. On any multipitch route you only untie once, so how easy or hard the knot is to undo doesn't really matter. Maybe if you're into taking monster whippers every ten seconds on your 5.stupid project it'd be worth considering.

Author:  Jim Prager [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  Rok Roskar [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

many people prefer the bowline, but as has already been pointed out it should always be backed up properly. The safety knot is much more important with the bowline precisely because the knot itself doesn't tighten. I used it for a while but then it started to bother me that my partners could never check my knot adequately so I reverted to the figure 8. I found that if I had lingering worries about safety I just couldn't climb well... and then it didn't really matter which knot I was using, because I ended up feeling frustrated. Personally, I sometimes like taking whippers on sport projects and untying the fig 8 has never been impossible... if I'm too pumped to do it, there is always my belayer :)

Author:  galitsky [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

There have been lots of articles on the bowline and accidents (I've never heard it called the Yosemite bowline, news to me!). Most recently in the fall (maybe winter) issue of R&I there was an accident report about a bowline. It gives a good summary. Basically they say this: they've had plenty of reports of accidents with the bowline, none with the figure 8. You do the math. Most newbies can't check a bowline, and it's harder to check even if you've checked it many times (versus figure 8). I climb with lots of peeps that use them in the gym (easier to untie), but wouldn't ever recommend it.

Author:  Obadiah Reid [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  David Goulet [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  Jim Prager [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  Obadiah Reid [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  Jim Prager [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 3:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

And the chemist in Obadiah shines through again. :D

Author:  gracemarx [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  amit tai [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline


Author:  Obadiah Reid [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

Hmm. Yes, you're right. My statement of "entropy" was incorrect. What I computed is the ratio of degeneracies for the state "dead" to the total system entropy: S_dead/S_total.

Author:  David Goulet [ Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Figure eight follow-through versus Yosemite bowline

..... that really clears things up :? ....

Page 1 of 2 All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
https://www.phpbb.com/