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The Climbing Club :: View topic - Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Updated)
The Climbing Club
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/

Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Updated)
http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6477
Page 1 of 1

Author:  Alex Khramov [ Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Updated)

Hi all, how about scrambling up Tomyhoi peak on Sunday, the 14th?

The trip involves 3800' of gain, around 6 hours of ascent, around 3 hours one-way of driving. Crampons, ice-axe are needed. I think that leaving Seattle at 6:00-6:30 would be a good idea.

Update:
Location: Tomyhoi Peak
Participants: Alex, Ben, Cori, Grant, Grant's friend
My contact: Post, PM, 206-393-2395!

Author:  BenPS [ Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14

Hi Alex,

In case I forget to mention it when I see you tomorrow, I'm posting here that I'm interested. And I have a car! Where you thinking of driving Sunday morning or Saturday night?

Author:  Grant A [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14

I would most likely be in. A friend of mine is in town, so if we can russle up another ice axe and pair of crampons then we would love to join you. I also have a car.

Author:  Cori B [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14

Hey-o. If no one minds a cozy 5-person car ride, I'd love to join. I'm quite new to mountaineering but I can grab crampons and an ice axe from the IMA, provided no one is concerned about my noob status. Let me know! PM or text/call me at 3one7 - 44zero - 3642.

Cori

Author:  Alex Khramov [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14

I'm getting kind of sketched out by all the exposure that seems to exist on Tomyhoi. Is everyone up for switching this trip to Mt. Larrabee (same area, same gorgeous views promised, slightly longer, involves waking up slightly earlier, but hopefully smaller chance of anything bad happening). If there are club members who have been in that zone and have comments/advice, I'd be very grateful

Author:  Craig Weiland [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Larrabee instead?)

I hear you need a pretty burly vehicle to get up the road to the twin lakes trailhead and thus to Larrabee (beyond Yellow Aster trailhead). As for the climb itself, I believe it has a reputation for being quite loose (as is any mountain that is reddish that I know of) and probably isn't an easy scramble. I'm not sure I would consider it easier than Tomyhoi, though I haven't done it myself.



Not sure I would have many better suggestions though...maybe Baring or some Tatoosh Range peaks?

Author:  Eric Johnson [ Fri Aug 12, 2011 1:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Larrabee instead?)

Having done both, I'd say that Larrabee is probably easier but certainly less aesthetic terrain. It's certainly shorter if you can start from Twin Lakes (4 hrs. RT, so we did Winchester after). Will of course depend on current conditions in this unusual snow year. Tomyhoi is prettier terrain (esp. in Sept with all the foliage turning red) and I thought more fun. Tomyhoi had some weird moat ratting to get up to the S ridge on permanent Sept snow, but might be easier now. I did them about a week apart in September several yrs. ago.

The upper slope of Larrabee is definitely one of the most loose rock slopes I've ever been on. I'd bring helmets for either peak, and of course ax/crampons. Note that NWS says the weather coming in Sunday pm is from the NW, so that area will get hit first.

Alex, I didn't find Tomyhoi sketchy, though the final scramble up the face of the summit block is quite steep and a bit exposed, but I think it's only ~50-75'. It would depend on your experience/comfort level and of course conditions how you would feel about it. It is a beautiful hike to and above the tarns near YAB. There will be some moderately steep snow once you traverse around the right side of the S ridge (to avoid pinnacles), then more snow to get up onto the ridge.

Larrabee is actually a peak that requires more care, as once you enter the gully it's extremely loose crap all the way to the summit. Once out of the gully, we stayed to climber's right up to the top, though the upper slope--which is entirely covered in choss, but only moderate angle--has enough room you should be able to spread out and avoid being in each other's fall line. There is no exposure on this slope to speak of.

Another option in that area would be Goat Mtn.

Author:  Alex Khramov [ Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tomyhoi Peak, Sun, Aug 14 (Larrabee instead?)

I've conferred with Ben and I think the final decision is that Tomyhoi is a go.

Ben's car can take 5 non-gear-intensive people, so let's do it.

Eric, Craig, thanks for your comments!

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